Freelander TD4 Lack Of Power

[a***@bbc.co.uk]

04 TD4 Freelander with lack of power from 1800 revs or so. Starts and
idles fine. Foot flat to the floor from 1800 revs or so and it'll get
to 2000 and pretty much stay there unless the auto box kicks down.
Acceleration is very poor. No fault codes and no MIL light,
diagnostics all show all engine sensors are operating correctly.
Capturing to an avi file on a drive shows nothing abnormal. I've
checked all vacuum hoses and replaced suspects, and replaced squishy
turbo hoses. Disconnecting the MAF the car drives fine, so replaced
it, but still no cure. As car drives fine with disconnected MAF, I'd
guess this rules out a fuel problem. Any further ideas? I have a Boost
Control Valve on order, so will change this next. Is there anywhere
else I should be looking? If the Boost Control valve was faulty,
wouldn't the manifold presure go very high? There's no EGR valve to
worry about either, it's been removed with a bypass kit.

I'm stuck!

Alan C

[EMB]

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk
04 TD4 Freelander with lack of power from 1800 revs or so. Starts and
idles fine. Foot flat to the floor from 1800 revs or so and it'll get
to 2000 and pretty much stay there unless the auto box kicks down.
Acceleration is very poor. No fault codes and no MIL light,
diagnostics all show all engine sensors are operating correctly.
Capturing to an avi file on a drive shows nothing abnormal. I've
checked all vacuum hoses and replaced suspects, and replaced squishy
turbo hoses. Disconnecting the MAF the car drives fine, so replaced
it, but still no cure. As car drives fine with disconnected MAF, I'd
guess this rules out a fuel problem. Any further ideas? I have a Boost
Control Valve on order, so will change this next. Is there anywhere
else I should be looking? If the Boost Control valve was faulty,
wouldn't the manifold presure go very high? There's no EGR valve to
worry about either, it's been removed with a bypass kit.
I'm stuck!

Blocked exhaust? (probably from the internals of the catalytic converter
collapsing).

[a***@bbc.co.uk]

Post by EMB
Blocked exhaust? (probably from the internals of the catalytic converter
collapsing

As it runs fine, infact better than it ever has, with the MAF
disconnected, I'd presume the exhaust was fine? I know cats do
collapse though.

Alan C

[m***@gmail.com]

Hi m8 did u ever fix that freelander problem

[Richard]

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk
04 TD4 Freelander with lack of power from 1800 revs or so. Starts and
idles fine. Foot flat to the floor from 1800 revs or so and it'll get
to 2000 and pretty much stay there unless the auto box kicks down.
Acceleration is very poor. No fault codes and no MIL light,
diagnostics all show all engine sensors are operating correctly.
Capturing to an avi file on a drive shows nothing abnormal. I've
checked all vacuum hoses and replaced suspects, and replaced squishy
turbo hoses. Disconnecting the MAF the car drives fine, so replaced
it, but still no cure. As car drives fine with disconnected MAF, I'd
guess this rules out a fuel problem. Any further ideas? I have a Boost
Control Valve on order, so will change this next. Is there anywhere
else I should be looking? If the Boost Control valve was faulty,
wouldn't the manifold presure go very high? There's no EGR valve to
worry about either, it's been removed with a bypass kit.
I'm stuck!
Alan C

Worth checking the Cam Cover Filter ......... when that gets congested you
get these symptoms (often intermittent at first). When very badly congested
you will get black smoke also. The normally clever little Land Rover
computer diagnostic tool does _NOT_ pick this fault up (well they didn't
very late 07). Strangely BMW recommend changing this unit on their BMWs
quite regularly but for some reason it didn't get included in the L/Rover
TD4 maintenance schedule until about '07 via an alert, not sure if it has
been universally adopted though.

Richard

[a***@bbc.co.uk]

Post by Richard
Worth checking the Cam Cover Filter

Changed that last week.

Alan C

[Richard]

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk

Post by Richard
Worth checking the Cam Cover Filter

Changed that last week.
Alan C

Didn't see it mentioned in your post .......... just the MAF .... still
there you go

Richard

[Richard]

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk

Post by Richard
Worth checking the Cam Cover Filter

Changed that last week.
Alan C

This is the part I am on about ....... not the MAF

http://www.bmwland.co.uk/talker/viewtopic.php?p=362526

Richard

[a***@bbc.co.uk]

So far I have changed the MAF, cam cover PVC valve, fuel filter, 2
turbo hoses as they were very soft and squishy, air intate temperature
sensor as it came with one of the hoses, and replaced any suspect
looking vacuum hoses (which control amongst other things the boost
control solenoid). All the engine sensors appear normal and within
scope when checked on the diagnostics, no error codes and no MIL lamp,
but still won't rev much past 2000 revs unless forced hard and there's
no power there. What's confusing me is that with the MAF disconnected
it goes fine (of course it then logs a fault and turns the MIL on),
been advised that usually in this instance it's the MAF which is
faulty, but I have 3 different MAFs now, all with the same fault, I
doubt it. You know where you are with mechanical injection, but
electronic? Pah, even the computer doesn't know :-(

Alan C

[Austin Shackles]

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk
So far I have changed the MAF, cam cover PVC valve, fuel filter, 2
turbo hoses as they were very soft and squishy, air intate temperature
sensor as it came with one of the hoses, and replaced any suspect
looking vacuum hoses (which control amongst other things the boost
control solenoid). All the engine sensors appear normal and within
scope when checked on the diagnostics, no error codes and no MIL lamp,
but still won't rev much past 2000 revs unless forced hard and there's
no power there. What's confusing me is that with the MAF disconnected
it goes fine (of course it then logs a fault and turns the MIL on),
been advised that usually in this instance it's the MAF which is
faulty, but I have 3 different MAFs now, all with the same fault, I
doubt it. You know where you are with mechanical injection, but
electronic? Pah, even the computer doesn't know :-(

wiring or connector issue on the MAF connection?

[M Kfivethousand]

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk
So far I have changed the MAF, cam cover PVC valve, fuel filter, 2
turbo hoses as they were very soft and squishy, air intate temperature
sensor as it came with one of the hoses, and replaced any suspect
looking vacuum hoses (which control amongst other things the boost
control solenoid). All the engine sensors appear normal and within
scope when checked on the diagnostics, no error codes and no MIL lamp,
but still won't rev much past 2000 revs unless forced hard and there's
no power there. What's confusing me is that with the MAF disconnected
it goes fine (of course it then logs a fault and turns the MIL on),
been advised that usually in this instance it's the MAF which is
faulty, but I have 3 different MAFs now, all with the same fault, I
doubt it. You know where you are with mechanical injection, but
electronic? Pah, even the computer doesn't know :-(
Alan C

I didnt know either when you said it

It must mean its secret and clandestine

mk5000

Service-oriented businesses like restaurants have switched over to delivery as the primary means of reaching customers. City populations will thin if offices go empty, and the ancillary businesses that relied on the white-collar workers — like dry cleaners, delis and parking lots — will thin out as well.--Sean Higgins, detroit news

[s***@btinternet.com]

Post by M Kfivethousand

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk
So far I have changed the MAF, cam cover PVC valve, fuel filter, 2
turbo hoses as they were very soft and squishy, air intate temperature
sensor as it came with one of the hoses, and replaced any suspect
looking vacuum hoses (which control amongst other things the boost
control solenoid). All the engine sensors appear normal and within
scope when checked on the diagnostics, no error codes and no MIL lamp,
but still won't rev much past 2000 revs unless forced hard and there's
no power there. What's confusing me is that with the MAF disconnected
it goes fine (of course it then logs a fault and turns the MIL on),
been advised that usually in this instance it's the MAF which is
faulty, but I have 3 different MAFs now, all with the same fault, I
doubt it. You know where you are with mechanical injection, but
electronic? Pah, even the computer doesn't know :-(
Alan C

I didnt know either when you said it
It must mean its secret and clandestine
mk5000
Service-oriented businesses like restaurants have switched over to
delivery as the primary means of reaching customers. City populations
will thin if offices go empty, and the ancillary businesses that relied
on the white-collar workers ˜ like dry cleaners, delis and parking lots
˜ will thin out as well.--Sean Higgins, detroit news

You've replied to a ten year old post, lol

Stephen
--

[a***@bbc.co.uk]

Hi Richard,

Yes, the cam cover PCV filter has been changed. Don't know why I keep
calling it a valve!

Alan C

[Devan]

Post by a***@bbc.co.uk
Hi Richard,
Yes, the cam cover PCV filter has been changed. Don't know why I keep
calling it a valve!
Alan C

I had a similar problem and changed the MAF, PVC, and cleaned out the EGR.
After the MAF was replaced the car idling was erratic and sometimes would
switch off when cold starting. However after a few days of driving (approx.
10kms per day) it seems to be going a lot smoother with easy gear changes etc.
the only problem I detect now is that when I depress the accelerator it
doesn't respond immediately and only does so after a few nervous moments. Same
story when going up hills, depress the accelerator and it is slow to kick down
and gather speed. Not sure what the cause of this is and would appreciate some
suggestions, it has a new oil and air filter for good measure.

Devan

--
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[Devan N]

replying to Devan , Devan N wrote:
To the experts out there PLEASE help!

I posted a previous note about my Freelander TD4 2004 acceleration problem and
hope you can shed some light before I subject myself to the agents and
further enormous expense.

The TD4 starts first time every time and but when I press the accelerator it
stutters and sometimes even cuts out completely. If I let it idle for a while
(1 minute) then it doesn't switch off but it still feels hesitant and there is
a ticking sound (like the old tappets). While driving and especially on an
uphill, if I depress the accelerator completely I get no response whatsoever
and the car will not go past 80km/h except if I put it into sport mode to
encourage torque then it picks up again. If I need to stop at a traffic light
I can feel the idle is rough.

the vehicle has been serviced recently and in addition I have replaced a
number of items the MAF, PVC, and OIL and AIR filters. I am not sure if any of
the hoses are gone or if the wiring needs to be replaced but I am frustrated
to no end with a car that has been with us since new and I am hoping t keep it
for a while more.

At the last service the injectors all showed within spec so I am stumped.

Any assistance will be appreciated!



--
posted from
http://www.motorsforum.com/landrover/freelander-td4-lack-of-power-129308-.htm
using MotorsForum's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface t
alt.fan.landrover and other automotive groups

[John Williamson]

Post by Devan N
To the experts out there PLEASE help!
I posted a previous note about my Freelander TD4 2004 acceleration problem and
hope you can shed some light before I subject myself to the agents and
further enormous expense.
The TD4 starts first time every time and but when I press the
accelerator it
stutters and sometimes even cuts out completely. If I let it idle for a while
(1 minute) then it doesn't switch off but it still feels hesitant and there is
a ticking sound (like the old tappets). While driving and especially on an
uphill, if I depress the accelerator completely I get no response whatsoever
and the car will not go past 80km/h except if I put it into sport mode to
encourage torque then it picks up again. If I need to stop at a traffic light
I can feel the idle is rough.
the vehicle has been serviced recently and in addition I have replaced a
number of items the MAF, PVC, and OIL and AIR filters. I am not sure if any of
the hoses are gone or if the wiring needs to be replaced but I am frustrated
to no end with a car that has been with us since new and I am hoping t keep it
for a while more.
At the last service the injectors all showed within spec so I am stumped.
Any assistance will be appreciated!

Not saying it's the same problem, but this came up on Landy Zone on a
'04 TD4 with a similar sounding problem. There were initially no fault
codes showing on the ECU. :-

"Its an injector. I found number 2 wasnt doing anything when i pulled
the connector off while it was missing, so i swapped number 2 with
number 1 and the missfire followed it."

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-misfire-44150.html

For the full thread.

Now, if it had been an old 2 1/4 petrol engine like mine, I could have
given you chapter and verse on misfiring.....